Games Workshop Citadel Bombe sous-couche - Aérosol Contrast Wraithbone

Product Information

The Contrast spray primers also come with matching base paint versions. I tested Wraithbone and as you can see, the result is pretty close. However, even though Wraithbone is a base paint, the coverage is as you would expect from a light, almost white bone colour – not that great. It took me about 6 or 7 thin layers for perfect coverage over a medium grey primer. Because of the number of layers, I had to apply the result wasn’t perfectly smooth and I noticed the Contrast paint dried noticeably more uneven. Contrast paints really benefit from a perfectly smooth base coat. Experimenting with Contrast paints & Contrast Medium Also do you have a tip for an easy to achieve (i.e. contrast level of lazyness) piggy/salmon pink? I've tried the lighter contrast pink, but even heavily thinned with contrast medium the tone is way to purple overall and in the recesses. With a wash of fuegan orange over that I've had moderate success. Maybe something over a fleshtone would be better. But rather than go into any rambling about different results with different colors, here's a list of the primers I've used quite successfully with all the Contrasts: Note particularly what he does with the green ink. As I said I don't think that would work with a Contrast because the Contrast would kill most of the Zenithal underneath. The thinness of the ink is what allows the Zenithal to show up. Contrasts might be too strong for this.

With battles exploding around ruins all over the realms thanks to the headstrong Dawnbringer Crusades, you’re likely going to be painting a lot of stone terrain. Whether it’s for the battlefields of the Mortal Realms or the locales of the impending release of Kill Team, hobbyist extraordinaire Tyler Mengel has some straightforward but effective steps that will make your stone look like it was carved yesterday. All in all, the results are very nice for the high tabletop standard I usually go for. It also saved me a lot of time by combining base colour and shading in one go, especially on the orange clothes – even over white primer, it takes several layers of achieving an even coat of orange. With Contrast, it’s just a single coat straight from the pot (or two, in my case, to make the colour even richer). Citadel Contrast review: value What dungeon would be complete without blood splatters? Using a little bit of Blood for the Blood God , I added some pools of blood on the floor part and a bit on the pillars where it would get splashed. Remember, less is more. Wow, well the best answer I can give is that with some Contrast colors there's almost no difference, with others there is "some" difference.

The Foundations

In other words, because of how Contrasts work Zenithal might be a waste of time. The Contrasts kind of already do on their own what Zenithal and shade washes would do.

Most people use both terms and mean the same thing. But the difference between primer and spray paints is that “real” primers contain a solvent that creates a stronger bond with the surface of the miniature and thus provides better adhesion and higher resistance. Spray paints do not contain solvent, or less of it.Personally, I feel Guilliman Flesh produces rather stark results (as do the Fyreslayer Flesh and Darkoath Flesh from my experience). Fine for very muscular and animated faces, but I guess I’d prefer Reikland Fleshshade for the softer shading. Two coats of Reikland Fleshshade are pretty close to a single layer of Guilliman Flesh. The pigments used for Contrast paints are really strong and vibrant. In comparison to Citadel Shades or other washes, Contrast Paints have a slightly higher viscosity, which means they are not as “runny”. I recommend washing your brushes a lot when using them, as the heavily pigmented paint easily creeps up into the ferrule of your brush, where it might dry and make short work of the bristles. I was allowed to test White Scar Sprayand it has very good coverage and is easy to use.I also realise why Games Workshop is replacing Corax White. Many people have asked for a true white primer, and many of the 25 new Contrast paints are very vibrant, and a pure white basecoat will really help to give these colours a boost. Here is a Kruleboy I painted with the new Shade and Contrast Paints over White Scar primer, and you can see how much the new magenta Contrast paint pops on his shield:

What about touching up mistakes? Because of their transparent nature, you can’t just paint another layer of Contrast paint over any paint spills. You’d need to apply your base colour first, then add another layer of Contrast. However, I found this often creates a “patchy” look. I prefer painting a matching regular acrylic paint over paint spills. Citadel Contrast – taken a step further Wash your brushes a lot, as the high-pigmented paint will easily creep up into the ferrule of your brush. Anyways. Has anybody made experiences with other off white spray primers? I did some google-fu, but people are mostly talking about whether contrast primers are needed on a technical level which is not my concern Here's an example. This pig baggage carrier. The photos aren't the best, but it shows the pale, pinkish color I achieved with the Guilliman Flesh over the white undercoat. I'm trying to remember how much I diluted the Contrast but I know it was very, very thin. I added a lot of Contrast Medium to lighten the flesh color: With regard to Zenithal, I've never personally done it yet but I actually plan to with an upcoming orc army. I'm planning on doing White Zenithal over a gray primer and use Ork Flesh Contrast over all the skin, or maybe Astra Militarum Green. I think the Contrasts could work really well over Zenithal. Although I could also see maybe having to dilute some of the darker Contrasts because they may not ideally show up if the Zenithal has a lot of darker gray behind it.Contrast paints really benefit from a smooth primer (as do washes, as you can see). I also applied Guilliman Flesh over Wraithbone base paint. As a lot of layers were needed for perfect coverage, the finish wasn’t as smooth as with Wraithbone spray primer. You can see the Guilliman Flesh dried more uneven because of that. Sealing the surface with a coat of satin varnish might help to reduce this effect. I'm with you on the "airbrush look", I'm not a fan of it either. I much rather prefer washes and dry brushes over other colors. so the short answer to all of the Zenithal stuff is that you would probably have to heavily dilute the Contrasts to make them really work over Zenithal. You can do that of course, but at that point you're really just using the Contrasts as ordinary washes or inks. I would personally just get like Army Painter washes and inks instead. Second, the mattness. The more matte the primer, the better the paint will adhere on your Warhammer miniature. A matt surface is rough on a microscopic level, which gives acrylic paint more grip. If, on the other hand, the primer is too glossy, paint adheres less well and you need to apply more coats for an opaque result, and thin paints such as washes / Shade paints or Contrast paints can even drip off. The gloss is a disadvantage of many metallic spray paints, and the only thing you can do about it is to paint over with a thin layer of a matching metallic paint or a matt/satin varnish.